Cajun or Creole?

Cajuns: According to the National Park Service, the 700,000 Acadians who live in Southern Louisiana make up the largest French-speaking minority in the United States. In 1604, they left Brittany and Normandy in France for Nova Scotia, Canada. About 1750, they were forced from the Canadian homes by the British. Many eventually settled in South Louisiana, along the Mississippi River above New Orleans, while others migrated to wetlands along Bayou Lafourche and the Atchafalaya Basin. Living in isolation for generations, they preserved their French language and traditions. Cajun is a corruption of the original Acadians (Acadiennes).

Creoles: The Creoles of New Orleans, on the other hand, descended from settlers who came directly to Louisiana. Some were aristocrats fleeing the French Revolution; others were refugees from Napoleon’s army; and still others were French speaking blacks from Haiti and other Caribbean islands. Over time, Creole came to mean “native to Louisiana” whether French, Spanish, African, or German in origin; French speaking; and locally born. “They” were American or European immigrant outsiders.

Today Creole tends to reflect the food, music and customs of French colonial Louisiana. Acadians (“Cajuns”) arrived via France and Nova Scotia, Canada, and unlike the urban Creoles, settled in the isolated bayou country. They were farmers, ranchers and craftspeople, noted for their distinctive dialects and loyalty to place, family and customs.

For more information, visit one or more of the sites of Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, and take time to watch the explanatory movies
 – you won’t regret it. Sites are located in New Orleans, Lafayette, Thibodeaux, Eunice, Barataria, and Chalmette. Many have great live music, too.

Louisiana Lagniappe 
 

Louisiana has too much to offer to focus only on New Orleans, so we’re offering you a lagniappe, Creole for something extra. From New Orleans to Plantation Country to Cajun Country, you’ll be delighted with Louisiana’s great food, music, and wonderful hospitality. By staying at a B&B or inn, you’ll be sure to get the inside track on the best of local food, music, sights and attractions, avoiding tourist traps and finding genuine experiences.

Creole Queen and The St. Louis Cathedral

Getting Around
As of this writing (July 2006), the Canal Street and Riverfront streetcars were back in operation, and the famous St. Charles line was expected to return to service by the end of 2006. Traffic lights were also damaged by Katrina, which has caused traffic problems.

Most lights have been repaired, and the rest should be back online soon. Fortunately, cabs are inexpensive, and much of the city is ideal for walking. So
me neighborhoods are unsafe after dark, so always check with your innkeeper for advice. As in any urban area, never leave packages and/or valuables showing in the cab of your vehicle.

When to Go
Although parts of the city are still devastated, most of New Orleans is back from Katrina’s effects. Restaurants, museums and other attractions are back in operation, and visitors are welcomed with open arms. Outside of the NOLA area, where it didn’t flood, there’s been a complete recovery from Katrina. Although it’s hot, summer rates are extremely reasonable, and temperatures are more or less the same as many other parts of the United States. If you’d rather wait for cooler temperatures, November through February is ideal, since Louisiana winters are extremely mild. As always, advance reservations are essential for Mardi Gras and big festival weekends.

Sights & Activities
New Orleans

Claes Oldenburg's Safety Pin in the Besthoff Sculpture Garden

New Orleans is more than the tacky bars of Bourbon Street. Be sure to stroll the Riverwalk, take the free Canal Street ferry, enjoy the atmosphere of Jackson Square, savor the jazz clubs of Frenchman Street, and sample the city’s amazing restaurants, including dozens that you’ve probably never heard of before. More information…

Food: New Orleanians live to eat. As a result, the city offers one of the most incredible concentra

tions of food in the world. More than 1,000 restaurants in the New Orleans metropolitan area are open as of June 2006. This includes most of the city's culinary treasures, according to the New Orleans Convention and Visitor’s Bureau. Be sure to ask your innkeeper for advice, and make advance reservations for top choices. Fabulous meals can be found in local bistros, at prices much more reasonable than the big-name restaurants; we had an excellent meal at the Café Degas on Esplanade in the Mid-City neighborhood.

Music: New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz and home to some of the world’s most popular musicians – from Louis Armstrong to Lenny Kravitz to the Marsalis clan. From street performers to intimate clubs, jazz funerals to festivals, and symphonies to headlining rock concerts, music is essential to New Orleans. For music to suit your tastes and budget, check with your innkeeper and click here as well.

Museums: Don’t miss the National D-Day Museum, and allow plenty of time for the well-presented exhibits. The New Orleans Museum of Art has a delightful sculpture garden (free admission), and fine collections ranging from pre-Columbian to modern. Of particular interest are the works of French Impressionist Edgar Degas, who lived and painted in New Orleans in the early 1870s. Equally compelling is the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, with paintings, sculpture, ceramics, and crafts from the 1700s to today. Click here for details on dozens more.

Along the Mississippi River in the French Quarter is the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas; the Entergy IMAX Theatre next door is a treat on hot days. The Audubon Zoo, on Magazine Street in the Garden District, offers a fabulous collection of natural habitats; take the St. Charles streetcar (or bus), walk, or take a ferry from the dock next to the aquarium.

Plantation and Cajun Country


Oak Alley Plantation, Vacherie, LA

Start your exploration of Cajun Country with two “don’t miss” museums, conveniently close to one another in Lafayette. Begin with the Jean Lafitte Acadian Cultural Center for an explanation of how the Acadian people were relocated from Nova Scotia, Canada, to the Mississippi Delta region during 1765-1785; the museum has an excellent movie, too. Next, plan to spend the afternoon at Vermillionville, a Cajun-Creole Heritage Park, where you can learn about local life between 1765 and 1890 from friendly docents who are also great storytellers. There’s a surprisingly good restaurant open for lunch (with traditionally served gumbo). On Sunday afternoons and Thursday evenings, locals come to dance up a storm to the best music we heard in the area. Be sure to take a swamp tour; we enjoyed one of Lake Martin, in the Lafayette area; ask your innkeeper for a recommendation of an owner-operated tour. We had a great time with Bryan Champagne. Also worth visiting is historic St. Martinville, in the heart of historic Acadiana. More area travel info…

Plantation tours:
The plantations of the Great River Road include Nottoway, Laura, Destrehan,
San Francisco, and Oak Alley. Unless you’re a dedicated student of Southern decorative art and architecture, a visit to two or three will do you; Oak Alley and Nottoway have accommodations as well. We loved Oak Alley for the majestic oak-lined drive and river view from atop the levee, and Laura for its fascinating and unusual history. While you’re in the area, stroll the historic towns of Donaldsonville, home to artist Alvin Batiste, and Thibodaux, with 19th century homes and the fascinating, unrestored Laurel Valley Plantation several miles east of town on LA 308.

Food and shopping: Most famous for Cajun food and dancing in the Lafayette area, and popular with locals and tourists alike, are Randol’s, Mulate’s, and Prejeans, with music and dancing most every night; but be sure to check with your innkeeper for less commercial options.

B&Bs and Inns

Baton Rouge
Close
to downtown Baton Rouge and LSU is the Stockade B&B, a spacious Spanish-style home, owned by Janice DeLerno, a delightfully friendly, humorous, and knowledgeable innkeeper.

Breaux Bridge/Lafayette/Rayne

Block-Keller House, New Orleans

Lyn and Ken Guidry provide your Cajun home-away-from home with the Maison D’Memoire, a collection of historic Cajun cottages, artfully restored and moved to the little town of Rayne, just 15 minutes from Lafayette and a mile from I-10.

Located on the old Ma
genta Plantation site is the charming Cajun Country Cottages in Breaux Bridge. Cottages are set around a private lake and are complete with kitchens, living rooms, gas logs, and porch swings. The nearby Country Charm B&B is an authentic Acadian country home built in the 1830s, decorated with antiques and collectibles. The Maison des Amis in downtown Breaux Bridge is a Cajun/Creole cottage built in 1870; guests relax in the gazebo overlooking Bayou Teche, and breakfast at the Café des Amis restaurant, around the corner, including Zydeco breakfast on Saturday mornings.

More Lafayette area B&Bs…

Napoleonville
A National Historic Landmark, Madewood is a grand plantation home that still manages to be homey and inviting. A stay at Madewood is like a house party from another era, complete with wine and cheese in the library at 6 p.m., dinner at 7 p.m. with Southern country cooking, followed by coffee and brandy in the parlor, and a plantation breakfast at 8:30 the next morning. To get the full Madewood experience, stay in the main house for at least two nights (and three would be better), since there’s lots to do in the area, from plantation tours to swamp trips to visiting the sleepy historic towns nearby.

New Orleans
Note: Due to local health department regulations, most New Orleans B&Bs serve a continental breakfast. If you want a full hot breakfast, check with the innkeeper for details.

Esplanade Avenue:

Ashton's Bed & Breakfast: An 1861 Greek Revival mansion with magnificent décor inside and lush greenery outside. Patrick Ashton’s full breakfasts are exceptional and creative.

Degas House: Built in 1852, home to Impressionist painter and sculptor Edgar Degas during his sojourn in New Orleans, 1872-1873.

Five Continents: Built in the late 1880s, this immaculate B&B combines period charm with appealing décor that owner Jess Beaty collected in his worldwide travels.


HH Whitney House: Circa 1865 Italianate mansion with original architectural charm, antique furnishings, tropical garden with swimming pool and hot tub.


House on Bayou Road: Dating to the late 1700s, you’ll feel like you have a country home in the city, with peaceful guest rooms surrounding a verdant backyard, complete with swimming pool and hot tub; also famous for cooking classes.

Faubourg Marigny:

B&W Courtyards: Three 19th-century buildings connected by lush tropical courtyards offer a taste of old New Orleans with a Caribbean twist.

Elysian Fields Inn: The simple raised cottage exterior belies the uncluttered and sophisticated elegance of this well-equipped and luxurious B&B, just a block from the jazz clubs and shops of Frenchman Street.

La Maison Marigny: Great location, comfortable rooms, relaxing garden courtyard, and hands-on innkeeper John Ramsey combine for a great New Orleans getaway.


Garden District/Uptown:

Avenue Inn: Innkeepers don’t get any friendlier or more knowledgeable than Joe & Bebe Rabhan, yet there’s ample privacy in this welcoming 1891 Thomas Sully Mansion, with 17 guest rooms to suit all budgets.


Chimes B&B: Longtime New Orleans residents Jill and Charles Abbayad will help you find the best the city has to offer. Guest rooms open to the garden courtyard in a quiet residential setting.

Grand Victorian: Impeccably restored 1890s Thomas Sully-designed Queen Anne mansion, hosted by knowledgeable New Orleans native Bonnie Rabe.

Hubbard Mansion: Newly built replica of a Natchez Mississippi Mansion, with five spacious, elegantly decorated guest rooms, hosted by the Hubbard family.

Magnolia Mansion: Elegant guest rooms, decorated with period antiques, in a raised Greek-rival mansion built in 1857, with eleven massive Corinthian columns, wraparound veranda, and framed by massive oaks.

Sully Mansion: Designed by renowned architect Thomas Sully in 1890, this Victorian-style home has an ideal location in the heart of the Garden District.


Mid-city:

1896 O’Malley House: Combines historic charm with everything the business traveler would want in the way of Internet access, writing desks, and voicemail, plus a location that’s an easy ride down the Canal Street streetcar to the convention center area and the French Quarter.

Block-Keller House: Magnificently restored Classical Revival-style villa offering B&B charm in an elegant, clutter-free environment, ideal for business or leisure travelers. The streetcar stop is steps from the front door on Canal Street.


More New Orleans area inns…

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Photos courtesy of Sandy Soule








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