If you're traveling via scenic Highway 88 from the San Francisco Bay area to Lake Tahoe, detour to tiny Volcano, a few miles and about a century off the beaten path. At the height of the Gold Rush, Volcano had 3 breweries, 17 hotels, 37 saloons, and a population of 5,000. Today, this quiet hamlet (population 100), is equally appealing as a base for wine touring in the Gold Country, or a pleasant stopover en route to the Sierras.

For genuine historic charm, visit the affordable Saint George Hotel. Raise a glass in the atmospheric 1930s-era saloon, enjoy dinner prepared by chef-owners Mark and Tracey Berkner, take in a show at the Volcano Theater Company, and spend the night at this 1862 hotel, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. B&B double rates range from $65-100 in the historic hotel (shared baths); $85-100 in the motel annex.

Getting there:
Lake Tahoe straddles the California/Nevada border, and is about 200 miles northeast of San Francisco, around 100 miles northeast of Sacramento, and 40 miles southwest of Reno, Nevada. By air, fly into the Reno-Tahoe airport and drive south; from the San Francisco Bay area, drive east via I-80, or Highways 50 or 88. Check on road conditions for winter storms, and try to avoid driving at peak times on weekends and holidays. The lake is 22 miles long, 12 miles wide, and an average of 900 feet deep; many surrounding mountains are over 10,000 feet high.

Activities:
The Tahoe area offers a wide range of activities for every season, from a variety of downhill and cross-country ski options when the snow flies, to endless choices for boating, fishing, bicycling, and hiking when it's warm--although with an elevation of 6225 feet at the lake, it rarely gets hot. An extensive network of paved bike trails can be found around Tahoe City; a favorite is the four-mile Truckee River trail, easy, scenic, and safe for biking and roller blading. Lake Tahoe hiking trails include the Rubicon Trail from Bliss State Park to Emerald Point, contrasting majestic sugar pines with stunning water views. Plan a day for Kit Carson Pass, high in the Sierras, on Highway 88 south of Tahoe. Pick up the trail at the visitors center, and follow it for 2˝ miles to Winnemucca Lake; Round Top Lake is another mile and is well worth the effort. Dramatic vistas are enhanced by fields of wildflowers in July and August. Wear sturdy shoes, bring plenty of food and water, then rejuvenate your weary bones in the natural hot springs pool at Grover State Park. More area info…

Inns:
Twenty miles south of Lake Tahoe is Sorensen's Resort, just a mile from the intersection of Highways 88 and 89. Rustic log cabins are tucked into the woods; the lodge restaurant is open for three meals daily. Our spacious cabin, Sheepherder, had a comfortable queen-size bed, well-equipped kitchen, wood stove, and a high loft perfect to sleep two school-age kids.

Several appealing B&Bs are located close to Lake Tahoe's West Shore. Framed by huge pine trees, Chaney House was built by Italian stone masons in the 1920s, and combines the genuine warmth of owners Lori and Gary Lori Chaney with a beautiful setting, just across the road from the lake. We loved the tidy red cottages of the Tahoma Meadows Inn; some have kitchens and are great for families. Although it has a quiet residential setting, the beautiful "Old Tahoe-style" Mayfield House is within easy walking distance of Tahoe City's restaurants, shops, and lakeside marinas. The Cottage Inn is a collection of classic stone and pine cottages, shaded by pines, and a short walk to a private beach. Our cottage suite, Home Suite Home was dark and cramped; the one-bedroom studios are a better choice.
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