Is the Grand Canyon grand? You bet it is, but be sure to allow time to experience northern Arizona's many other attractions, from dramatic rock formations to ancient Indian cliff dwellings to wonderful museums. Some of the country's best B&Bs, too.

The toughest part about a visit to Lake Tahoe and the Sierra Nevada Mountains is deciding what to do first: hiking, bicycling, boating, fishing, golf, white water rafting, or horseback riding in warm weather; downhill and cross-country skiing when the snow flies.

We're water lovers. Can you recommend any B&Bs on boats?

Boat and Breakfast is a great adventure; wonderful water views and a truly memorable experience is virtually guaranteed. Before making a reservation, do keep in mind that a yacht is not an inn, and a typical stateroom on a boat is much, much smaller than even the most modest B&B guest room. The head (bathroom) is often shared, and may make a phone booth feel spacious. Companionways (staircases) are steep and narrow, and can be slippery in wet weather. Soft-soled shoes are typically required.

The Schooner Woodwind is a 74-foot sailing yacht, docked at the Marriott Hotel wharf in historic downtown Annapolis, Maryland. Boat & breakfast guests arrive around 6:00 p.m., and soon depart for a two-hour sunset sail. We returned to the dock around 8:30, and had dinner at a nearby restaurant. After spending a cozy night, we awoke to breakfast served on the deck: fruit, bagels and muffins, smoked salmon, and their signature dish of yogurt, granola and maple syrup. Captain Jen Kaye was enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and friendly. The double rate, including the sunset sail, overnight accommodation, and breakfast, is $200.

The Stacia-Leigh Bed & Breakfast in Galveston, Texas, permanently moored at Pier 22 on The Strand, is a staysail schooner built in 1906 by French automobile inventor, Louis Renault. It was owned by Italian dictator Benito Mussolini in the 1940s, and has appeared in movies from the Count of Monte Cristo to Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. Completely renovated in 1998, the boat now has eleven staterooms with private baths and antique furnishings. Spacious common areas include a salon (living room) and dining area, hot tub and observation deck; B&B double rates of $125-150 include a full breakfast.

In Boston, the Constitution Marina offers overnight dockside boat charters at rates of $165 to $220 per night, per boat (2 - 4 people), including a continental breakfast and swimming pool access. Best of all are the views of Boston's inner harbor and downtown skyline, and great location, near the historic Freedom Trail and picturesque North End. A nearby alternative is the Golden Slipper, a restored classic Chris Craft yacht moored at Lewis Wharf.

For a sailing inn, consider a three- or six-day trip on the Schooner Kathryn B, sailing in Chesapeake Bay in spring and fall, Maine in summer, and the Caribbean in winter. The old-fashioned but brand-new 105-foot windjammer has five staterooms, each with queen-size bed and private shower.

The funkiest boat and breakfast we found was the MV Challenger Bunk & Breakfast (206-340-1201), a 1940s-era tugboat moored at the south end of Lake Union in Seattle, Washington. The panoramic views of the lake and the Space Needle are excellent, and Captain Jerry Brown keeps the tug clean and shipshape; Seattle is trying to ban on-board B&Bs, so the tug's future is in question. B&B double rates, $55-185, including a breakfast of bacon, eggs, rolls, and fresh fruit. No shoes on board.









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