Inn at Vaucluse Spring, Stephens City

Wine Tasting Techniques
Look. Pick up the glass by the stem so to appreciate the wine's color. Look through the rim; hold it up to the light. Cabernets lean towards purple or dark red; Pinot Noirs to ruby tones.

Swirl and smell. Watch how the wine coats the glass; inhale its fragrance. Young wines tend to be fruity, with buttery, cherry or plum flavors. Mature wines have complex perfumes; experts can detect cedar, spices, even chocolate.

Sip. Let the wine slide over your tongue, to appreciate its taste and texture.

Swallow. Enjoy the aromas as you exhale; savor the wine's aftertaste (finish).

Spit. It's perfectly OK to spit into the "dump bucket" instead of swallowing the wine.

A micro-history of American wine-making
In 1624, English law required that 20 grapevines be planted for each adult male colonist. As American Ambassador to France, Thomas Jefferson visited many European vineyards, returning to Monticello with cuttings of vitis vinifera, which produces the finest wines. Unfortunately, his plantings succumbed to phylloxera, a parasite to which the European vines had no immunity. Eventually, American hybrid wines flourished from New York to California. World Wars, Prohibition, and the Depression were all major setbacks for American wine-making; the tide didn't turn until the 1950s, when Ukrainian immigrant Dr. Konstantin Frank successfully grafted vinifera to native root stock.


Northern Shenandoah Valley, VA

Getting Around

Killahevlin, Front Royal
Northern Virginia is located approximately 300 miles southwest of New York City, 75 miles west of Washington, DC, and 130 miles northwest of Richmond, VA. The area is compact enough to tour from a central location, but varied enough to make a town -- to -- town trip equally appealing, especially if expanded south towards Charlottesville, Lexington, and Staunton.

Whatever your itinerary, allow time for a leisurely tour of a portion of the Skyline Drive, which follows the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains for the full length of Shenandoah National Park, from Front Royal south to Waynesboro, connecting directly with the 469-mile Blue Ridge Parkway. Lots of hiking trails and scenic overlooks await your exploration.

When to Go

Spring and fall weekends, when flowers and foliage are at their respective peaks, are the most popular -- and most congested -- times to visit. Winter is a quiet time, perfect for a relaxing getaway; go slow on winding mountain roads if a cold spell brings ice or snow. As always, value-conscious travelers will do best traveling between Sunday and Thursday.

Sights & Activities

After you've seen the view from the Skyline Drive, catch the sights from down below. Best known of the water-carved limestone caves which lie below the Shenandoah farmland are Luray Caverns and Skyline Caverns, but dedicated spelunkers will enjoy exploring the many other show caves, each with distinctive appeal and stable year-round temperatures. Ready for fresh air? Splurge on a breath-taking ride with Blue Ridge Hot Air Balloons..
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If you enjoy history measured in hundreds -- rather than millions -- of years, visit Belle Grove Plantation, a restored 18th century farm and Civil War battle site. Special events in November and December include a Living History weekend and Christmas Candlelight Tours. We had a wonderful time at Glen Burnie, a historic house with exceptional gardens, open from April through October. More history… For strolling, shopping, and dining, don't miss a visit to nearby Winchester, a historic town with an appealing walking mall, and one of the region's best restaurants, Violino's (540-667-8006).

"A meal without wine is like -- breakfast," someone told us once, and there's no better remedy than a visit to a Virginia winery for a tour and tasting. Linden and Oasis are two fine area choices, a short drive from Front Royal. Many wineries offer special holiday open houses in late November and December, so click for details.

B&Bs and Inns

Front Royal: For an in-town B&B, within walking distance of restaurants, galleries, and museums, an affordable choice is the Chester House. Gracious owners Phillip Inge and Allen Hamblin offer comfortable accommodation, spacious common areas and a wonderful garden boxwood maze.

Just north of town is Killahevlin, where Susan O'Kelly will welcome you to her historic hilltop Edwardian mansion, with wonderful mountain views from its expansive porches. Named for a castle in Ireland, Killahevlin's Irish hospitality extends from its generous breakfasts to its romantic guest rooms, to its cozy Irish pub. Plan to relax, and don't be surprised if you don't get around to all the sightseeing you had planned!

Stephens City: We had a delightful stay at the Inn at Vaucluse Spring, tucked away in a quiet but convenient country setting. The inn melds over 200 years of Virginia history with the vision of long-time resident artist John Chumley, enhanced by the exceptional good taste and hospitality of current owners and restorers Neil and Barry Myers.
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