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Halibut
Cove, Rockport, MA. Photo by Frank Ciccone
Located where the Merrimack River flows into the Atlantic Ocean, Newburyport
prospered through the 18th century as a vital trading port and shipbuilding
center. Today's visitors enjoy its Waterfront Park and boardwalk; restored
waterfront buildings now house art galleries, gift shops and restaurants, while
the historic downtown has brick and cobblestone streets. The nearby Tannery
district is an extension of the old steam mills and tanneries of the past. The
varied architecture includes shipyards and clammer's shacks as well as Colonial
saltboxes, Federal mansions, and Victorian houses. If all that walking has
given you an appetite, stop at the Starboard Galley on River Street for great
fried clams. Nearby Plum Island has public beaches and exceptional
bird-watching.
More Newburyport info.
Newburyport B&Bs.
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Cape Ann, Massachusetts's "Other Cape"
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Seacrest Manor, Rockport
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Getting Around
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About 35 miles northeast of Boston and Logan Airport, Cape Ann is home to
Rockport, Gloucester, Essex, and Manchester. Easy day trips include
Newburyport, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and Kittery, Maine about 40-60 miles to
the north, and Salem and Marblehead just 20 miles to the south. Rainy day? Hop
the
MBTA commuter rail to Boston and arrive at North Station in an hour.
Historic Rockport is relatively compact, making walking a pleasure and parking
a problem in season. Leave your car at the inn, and explore on foot or take the
bus to the beaches.
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When to Go
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As always, midweek visits offer the best rates and availability, minus crowds,
traffic and congestion. As you'd expect, June, July, August, and September are
packed with special events, including concerts, theater, art fairs, sailing
races, and seafood festivals. October brings fall foliage, and from late
November through December, Christmas on Cape Ann is celebrated with a variety
of special seasonal events.
More info.
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Sights & Activities
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Cape Ann was settled in 1623 by a splinter group of Pilgrims looking for good
fishing grounds, and was named for Queen Anne of England. Unlike better-known
Cape Cod, rocky Cape Ann has a coastline reminiscent of Maine.
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At Cape Ann's northern-most tip, Rockport was once famous for its granite, and
is now one of the country's oldest artist colonies. The red fishing shack known
as Motif No. 1 is located on Bearskin Neck Wharf. This oft-painted building was
named by illustrator Lester Hornby, who encouraged his students to draw
standard subjects or motifs. When he summered in Rockport, he noted that this
fishing shack on the wharf was the most popular subject. Legend has it, that
when yet another student brought him a drawing of the shack to be critiqued,
Hornby exclaimed, "What? Motif No. 1 again?"
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Bearskin Neck Wharf and Dock Square have many shops, boutiques and art
galleries for browsing. To bring local history alive, spend an hour with
Footprints Walking Tours. Beautiful
Halibut Point State Park is great for exploring tidal pools, old rock
quarries, and walking the trails. Whether you want to go sea kayaking, take a
lighthouse cruise, a sailing trip, or a whale-watching excursion, you'll find
it all on Rockport's wharves.
More boating info. More
Rockport info.
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Neighboring Gloucester is home to both a working fishing harbor as well as the
Cape Ann Symphony and the Gloucester Theatre Company. Eight miles west is
Essex, once known as a shipbuilding center, and still famous for its clamming
industry. Visit the
Essex Shipbuilding Museum to learn more local industry, and browse in
the town's dozens of antiques shops. Two local historic properties are open to
the public through the Society for
the Preservation of New England Antiquities. Beauport, in Gloucester,
is especially lovely, perched on the rocks overlooking the harbor. Cogswell's
Grant is an 18th century farmhouse in Essex that is filled with one of the
country's most important collections of folk art.
More area info.
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Dining: Popular restaurants include the Greenery, with the best
view of Motif No. 1; the Fish Shack for casual dining and super-fresh
seafood; and My Place By the Sea for fine dining in a relaxed waterside
setting. Rockport is a "dry" town so bring your own wine, beer, or preferred
beverage; most restaurants will supply setups.
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B&Bs and Inns
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Seven South Street Inn, Rockport
Photo credit: Brian Beaudry
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A mile from town, Seacrest
Manor on Marmion Way overlooks the sea and the twin lighthouses of
Thachers Island. The interior is beautifully decorated with antiques and
original oil paintings; outside, the lovely gardens bloom with flowers.
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In-town B&Bs:
Seven South Street Inn is delightful because of its lovely rooms,
immaculate housekeeping, comfortable beds, delicious full breakfast, and best
of all, innkeeper Debbie Benn. At the Greek Revival-style
Addison Choate Inn, welcoming innkeepers Cynthia and Ed Cambron showed us their lovely guest rooms; Room #1 was a
personal favorite.
Nearby is the Sally
Webster Inn, with the period fireplaces and wide plank floors of a
house built in 1832. Friendly innkeepers John & Kathy Fitzgerald encourage
guests to enjoy breakfast on the brick terrace, surrounded by flower gardens.
Many guests return to the
The Tuck Inn B&B for Scott and Liz Wood's warm hospitality, the
affordable rates, the generous breakfasts, the swimming pool, and the
convenient location, an easy walk to shops and restaurants. Betsy Eck,
innkeeper at The Inn on Cove
Hill, is doing an exceptional job of restoring this historic home, with
views of Rockport Harbor and Motif No. 1 from the third-floor porch. Located on
a hill overlooking the village, the
Pleasant Street Inn is a Queen Anne Victorian home with a wide veranda
and an old-fashioned tree swing on the ample grounds.
More Rockport inns.
More North Shore inns.
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