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Half Moon Bay
Enjoy a delightful slice of the California coast just a half-hour from San Francisco. The appealing Half Moon Bay area is perfect for beach combing, seal watching, hiking among the redwoods, and more. The town has shops and galleries for browsing, and Pasta Moon is a inviting dining choice, too. Favorite inns include the Cypress Inn on Miramar Beach Mill Rose Inn and Old Thyme Inn. More Half Moon Bay inns… Karen Brown's Seal Cove Inn and The Goose and Turrets are equally good options nearby.
| Words of advice |
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Ask whether your room will have a full water view. Despite implied ocean vistas, at many inns, the water is barely visible. |
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Book midweek off-season for top value. Substantial discounts are available Sunday-Thursdays in January and February. If you want a one-night weekend stay off-season, try calling during the week for a room that same weekend. |
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Don't expect to meet the owners. Many area inns are staff run. |
| Don't fool with Mother Nature |
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Keep your eyes on your driving. Pull over to enjoy the view. |
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Stay alert for storms or fog. If driving in fog, keep your lights on low beam, and never tailgate. |
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Respect the ocean's power. The rocks are slippery, the water's cold, the undertow treacherous, and rogue waves rise up to drown the unsuspecting. |
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Crashing surf. Jagged rocks. Windswept cedars. Dramatic ocean sunsets. No wonder the Monterey Bay and Big Sur areas are so popular. Give yourself plenty of time to hike or bike along the shore or beneath towering redwoods, browse elegant galleries, and sample first rate food and wine.
Getting there:
Monterey Bay carves a backwards "C" out of the California coastline. The adjacent towns of Monterey and Pacific Grove face the bay to the north; Carmel is on the south side of the peninsula. The Big Sur coast begins about twenty miles south of Carmel, and extends 90 miles south towards San Simeon. Figure on a three-hour drive from San Francisco.
Where to stay:
Carmel: We loved the Tickle Pink Inn, with serene vistas of the Pacific Ocean and dramatic views of the waves crashing on the rocks in the cove below. A breakfast buffet is laid out on the cliffside deck each morning; an ample wine and cheese hour is presented here in the late afternoon. Our toughest decision at the Tickle Pink was deciding where to watch the sun sink into the Pacific: from our room, the deck, or from the hot tub.
Clint Eastwood's Mission Ranch (800-538-8221) overlooks meadows and the water beyond. Stop by the bar for a drink, and you might even see Clint. In the village, try The Cobblestone Inn, a well-run teddy bear heaven; or the Happy Landing Inn (831-624-7917), with quaint steep-roofed pink cottages. The welcoming Sea View Inn is conveniently located on a quiet residential street, while the nearby La Playa Hotel has exceptional gardens. More inns…
Monterey & Pacific Grove:
For water-view rooms on the bay, a short walk from the aquarium and Cannery Row, try The Martine Inn or Green Gables Inn. The Old Monterey Inn combines beautiful decor with wonderful food and hospitality. More Monterey inns… More Pacific Grove inns…
Big Sur:
If you've just hit the Lotto, try either The Ventana or the Post Ranch Inn, but keep in mind that rates start at $340 for a standard room with no water view. We liked the modest but peaceful Big Sur Lodge set among the redwoods of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. More inns…
What to do:
Do not miss Carmel's dramatic Point Lobos State Reserve. Four state parks in Big Sur offer exceptional hiking; our favorite is the unmarked Pfeiffer State Beach. Turn right at the signs marked "Single Lane Road with Turnouts" and "Narrow Road: Not suited for Trailer Traffic," 32 miles south of Carmel.
Appealing Carmel art galleries include Zantman, Trotter, Masterpiece, and Weston. Wine lovers should begin at A Taste of Monterey on Cannery Row, representing 33 area wineries. Other favorite wineries include Bernardus, Georis and Talbott. Switching from self-indulgence to self-improvement, visit the Carmel Mission, Monterey State Historic Park, and the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Bicyclists can ride the scenic Monterey Peninsula Recreation Trail, or tackle the dramatic 17 Mile Drive.
Eating well:
Favorites include Fresh Cream in Monterey and Fandago in Pacific Grove. In Carmel, try Akaoni for sushi, Casanova for French/Italian cuisine; Rio Grill for California/Southwestern dishes; and Sans Souci for French food. For food with a view in Big Sur, stop at Nepenthe/Café Kevah, Ventana or Post Ranch.
More Monterey info; Big Sur info.
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