Getting Around: Steep mountainsides and rocky river gorges make one appreciate how the Interstate highway system has facilitated travel in this beautiful state. A scenic 350-mile loop starts in Charleston, detours west to Milton for the glass factory, then goes south through Beckley to Pipestem Resort. From Pipestem go northeast to Lewisburg and White Sulphur Springs, with a country roads detour to Pence Springs. From Lewisburg, drive northwest through Fayetteville and back to Charleston.

Sights & Activities:

Charleston: Take time to tour the Capitol Complex, including the impressive state capitol building, along with the State Museum in the Cultural Center. If you're in town on a Sunday, get tickets for National Public Radio's Mountain Stage for some great music.

Water sports: Whether you like your water mild or wild, you'll find thrilling river trips in southeastern West Virginia via raft, canoe, or kayak on the Greenbrier (the mildest) to the New (most popular for whitewater rafting) to the Gauley River (the wildest, and known as the "Beast of the East" each fall.

Hiking, biking, riding, and golfing: One of many options is the Greenbrier River Trail, a 75-mile long former C & O Railway line that follows the scenic Greenbrier River. Despite the hilly terrain, the trail's slope is never more than 1 degree. More info... (click "features") Numerous state parks are ideal for exploring--a favorite is Pipestem, with its dramatic Bluestone River Gorge, and its scenic 18-hole par 72 championship course, with greens fees under $30.

Coal-mining: Don't leave West Virginia without visiting a key element of the state's history; veteran miners will give you an authentic view of low-seam coal mining at the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine.

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Inns: West Virginia's unpretentious B&Bs offer warm hospitality, affordable rates, and comfortable furnishings. We visited the ones noted below, following the loop described in "Getting Around."

Charleston: Just a block from the Capitol, on a quiet residential street, is the staff-run Brass Pineapple, offering comfortable accommodation in a convenient location.

Milton: We have never met an innkeeper more huggable than Carole Vickers, the heart and soul of Cedar House. She knows everything about the area, and keeps her guests happy with tasty breakfasts and snacks. Ample common areas invite relaxation, and the top-priced Paisley Room is an amazing value.

Flat Top: In a region where living large is a double-wide, Prestwould is a remarkable slice of English country elegance in an Georgian-style brick home, set high in the hills with mountain and meadow views. Rooms are decorated with the highest quality furnishings and fabrics.

Pipestem: A rustic country lodge, everything about the Nostalgia Inn is generous, from the extremely spacious guest rooms to the 32-foot-tall native stone fireplace in the great room to the big warm hearts of welcoming owners Ellie and Jim White. Native West Virginians, you'll love the White's stories about life in the mountains.

Pence Springs: From grand resort hotel to women's prison to country inn, the Pence Springs Hotel is an amazing renovation in progress, offering old-fashioned country hotel charm in both its guest rooms and dining areas. Visit Sundays, April though October to experience the fun of its famous flea market and brunch.

Lewisburg: For a fraction of the cost of a stay at the nearby Greenbrier or Homestead, you can enjoy the General Lewis Inn, dating back to 1834. The immaculate guest rooms are simply furnished with authentic antiques, and the appealing dining room serves excellent regional fare. The Morgan family runs the inn with warmth, style, and charm, and all are pleased to help you discover area's many attractions, from local Civil War history sites to famous golf courses and more.

More West Virginia inns...