Biking on Cape Cod

 
Photo courtesy Eastham Chamber of Commerce

Bring or rent bikes and helmets for some great Cape Cod biking. Originally the rail beds of old train lines, including the Penn Central and the Cape Cod Railroad, many bike trails are paved and make for easy level riding. Favorites include the Shining Sea Trail between Falmouth and Woods Hole; the service roads on either side of the Cape Cod Canal between Sandwich and Sagamore, where you’ll enjoy watching a variety of working and pleasure craft short-cutting through the Canal instead of going all the way around the Cape; and the 20-mile long Cape Cod Bike Trail, starting in Dennis and winding through Harwich and Brewster to Eastham. Don’t miss the Nauset Trail at the Cape Cod National Seashore extending from the Salt Pond Visitor Center on Route 6 in Eastham to Coast Guard beach. For beautiful sand dune vistas and more of a challenge, head to Provincetown and the Province Lands Visitor Center. This hilly loop will take you to Herring Cove Beach, Race Point Beach and Bennet Pond, past cranberry bogs, marshes, kettle ponds, dunes, and expansive ocean views. Prefer to off-road on unpaved trails? You’ll find challenging unpaved trails  in the Barnstable/Hyannis area. Ask your innkeeper for advice on routing, timing, picnicking, and parking, and visit the Cape Cod Bike Guide for more information. Also check here for more information.

Cape Cod 



Getting Around
The Cape begins at the Cape Cod Canal, connecting Buzzards and Cape Cod Bay. It’s shaped like a flexed arm, with Route 28 and the Cape Cod Canal at the shoulder; Chatham at the elbow, and Provincetown forming a clenched hand. You’ll hear references to the bay side, referring to Cape Cod Bay on the north side of the Cape, and also to the Lower Cape (Chatham to Provincetown); Mid-Cape (Barnstable/Hyannis/Yarmouth); and the Upper Cape (Sandwich/Falmouth). It’s about 70 miles from Falmouth to Provincetown, but figure on two hours driving time to make the trip. Be sure to keep a map handy when planning your trip; each of its 15 townships covers dozens of little villages. For example, there’s Dennis, East Dennis, South Dennis, and Dennis Port. It’s about eight miles from Dennis/East Dennis on Cape Cod Bay to Dennis Port on Nantucket Sound. Click here for a helpful map.

If flying in, compare airfares to Boston's Logan Airport with those of Green Airport in Providence, since the distance to the Cape is the same -- approximately 75 miles. From the canal to the Cape's tip at Provincetown is about 70 miles. From Boston, you'll take Route 3 to the Sagamore Bridge; from the south pick up Route 25 to the Bourne Bridge. The three main roads on Cape Cod are Route 6A, following Cape Cod Bay to the north; Route 6, the Mid-Cape Highway; and Route 28, along Nantucket Sound to the south. All three merge at the rotary (traffic circle) in Orleans; from there, follow Route 6 to Provincetown.

A great way to see the Cape is by bike. Favorites include the bike paths that run on either side of the Canal, the 25-mile-long Cape Cod Rail Trail, the Falmouth Shining Sea Trail, and the Harwich-Chatham Bike Path. (See sidebar.) More info...

Ferries connect Woods Hole and Martha’s Vineyard, Hyannis Port and Nantucket, Boston and Provincetown, and more. More info...

When to Go
Although the Cape is beautiful in summer, rates are at their peak, and roads, restaurants, and golf courses can all be crowded, especially on weekends. The crowds leave after Labor Day, although both air and water temperatures are delightfully warm. Fall is an especially appealing time to visit, when the pace slows, but the temperature stays moderate because of the warming effects of the Gulf Stream. As always, midweek, off-season rates represent top value.

Sights & Activities
With 559 miles of coastline, and dozens of towns and villages, you'll find a wide variety of land and sea sports, walking trails and bike paths, shopping malls, antique shops, and art galleries. Be sure to ask your innkeeper for insider tips on where to find the best in whatever interests you. Some highlights, listed from west to east:

Sandwich: Heritage Plantation offers folk art, antique cars, and an antique carousel. The Sandwich Glass Museum displays more than 5,000 pieces created in this 19th century glass-making center.

Woods Hole: Visit the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute Exhibit Center to learn about ocean science research.
Hyannis: A busy seaside town, Hyannis is also home to the JFK Memorial and the JFK Museum, a multimedia exhibit devoted to Kennedy's days at Cape Cod. The Cape Cod Melody Tent hosts well-known singers, bands, and comedians.

Dennis: A worthwhile stop is the Cape Museum of Fine Arts celebrating the important role that this region has played in American art. Rte. 6A (the King's Highway) has lots of great shops for antiquing and browsing. Also in Dennis is the Cape Cod Playhouse, offering professional dramas and musicals from mid-June to early September.

Cape Cod National Seashore: Extending from Orleans to the Cape's tip at Race Point, the National Seashore has 40 miles of pristine sandy beaches and more. Stop at park headquarters in Wellfleet for details. Insect repellent advisable.
 
Provincetown: P'Town has lots of art galleries and a lively street scene. It's also a departure point for first-rate whale-watching trips offered by the Dolphin Fleet. Visit the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum for a taste of Cape history and a great view. According to the Gay & Lesbian Guide to P'town, "Provincetown is a safe, gay-friendly town where you can be open and carefree."

More info...

Dining
Your innkeeper is always the best source for recommendations and reservations, but based on recent visits, we recommend the Dolphin Restaurant in Barnstable Village for its casual, friendly atmosphere and great seafood, especially the fried oysters. In Sandwich, we enjoyed Amari, and loved the pan seared sea scallops and the wild boar at the Belfry Bistro; save room for dessert. Its sister restaurant next door is the whimsical Painted Lady, perfect for a casual meal. Seafood Sam's has four locations on the Cape, with yummy lobster rolls, fresh seafood, reasonable prices, and fast service. May through October, stop at Shuckers Raw Bar, on the wharf in Woods Hole, a casual place with a fun young wait staff. The Roo Bar in Falmouth has first-rate martinis and excellent steak au poivre. Overlooking Provincetown's fishing docks, it's hard to go wrong at the Lobster Pot.

B&Bs and Inns

Ashley Manor

Cape Cod is home to a great many wonderful inns and B&Bs. For a complete list, check BedandBreakfast.com's Cape Cod map, then click through to the towns and/or individual inns that interest you.

Noted below are some we've visited recently and can personally recommend. We’ve listed them by area, going from west to east, then alphabetically by inn name. Click through to each property to see its exact location, but keep in mind that distances from one village to the next are minimal.

Falmouth area
Panoramic water views are a plus at Bailey's by the Sea, along with great breakfasts, comfortable accommodations, and warm hospitality. This 1870s home is within walking distance of the Vineyard ferry.


Built in 1892, the Inn at One Main is centrally located in the heart of the Falmouth Historic District, just minutes from shops, restaurants, and area attractions.




Elegantly decorated in restful shades of taupe and ivory, the Inn on the Sound has wonderful water views, spacious common areas, and delicious breakfasts served from 8:30 a.m.-11 a.m. in your room, on the deck, or in the dining room.


Sandwich
The Belfry Inne & Bistro combines Victorian elegance and whimsical charm, with food (see dining, above) and lodgings in three adjacent buildings: The Abbey (circa 1900), a former church; its manse, The Painted Lady (circa 1882); and The Village Inn (circa 1838). Rooms at the Belfrey feature fireplaces, whirlpool tubs for two, stained glass windows, or private balconies.




The circa 1849 Isaiah Jones Homestead combines historic architectural details with all modern amenities. The Carriage House behind the inn is perfect for families or couples traveling together. Enjoy breakfast in the mahogany paneled dining room, then relax in Adirondack chairs overlooking the fish pond and lush gardens.




Built in 1748, Inn at Sandwich Center retains much of its historic character. Climb the classic Federal-style staircase to find the Lottie Chipman Room with a wood-burning fireplace; the Robert Morse room with wide pine floors and its own deck; and the lighthouse-themed Deacon’s Room, with a private deck.


Barnstable area
Innkeeper Lisa Callahan pampers her guests with afternoon treats and homemade breakfasts, and ensures that they experience all Cape Cod has to offer. A favorite room is the Cummaquid with the working fireplace, ideal for an off-season visit to the Acworth Inn.


Dating back to 1699, Ashley Manor combines historic charm with luxurious accommodations, plus a private tennis court. The Queen Charlotte Suite has a secret staircase that leads to the attic; Tories were hidden during the Revolutionary War, and slaves used it when escaping to freedom in later decades.


Debbie and Ken Traugot welcome guests to their romantic 1853 Queen Anne Victorian home, Beechwood Inn. Guests rave about Debbie’s breakfasts and dog lovers will be enthralled by the golden retrievers they breed and show.




The Captain Farris House is a beautiful historic home and carriage house, connected by a charming enclosed courtyard where breakfast and afternoon tea are served. The well-appointed rooms have whirlpool baths, fireplaces, private entrances, and/or decks. Nancy and Mike offer delectable three-course breakfasts; the oatmeal pancakes are a special favorite.




The High Pointe Inn has a 75-foot-long deck that looks out to Cape Cod Bay, over the Great Salt Marsh and dunes of Sandy Neck Beach. The spacious guest rooms have fireplaces or private decks. Guests are invited to choose from a full breakfast menu featuring five entrées each morning. Experienced innkeepers Debbie & Rich Howard are renowned for their hospitality and great breakfasts.




Dating back to 1810, Honeysuckle Hill is surrounded by beautiful gardens. Hospitable innkeepers Freddy and Ruth Riley, welcome guests to enjoy the bright and airy guest rooms, plus four-course breakfasts.




Josiah Sampson House is an 18th century Federal-style mansion; its guest rooms have built-in bookcases and wide plank floors. In summer, amazing breakfasts are served on the deck.


The Lamb and Lion Inn is owned by experienced innkeepers Alice Pitcher and Tom Dott (formerly of New York’s Old Drover’s Inn). Guest rooms have individual entrances, and most surround the heated swimming pool and spa. Small pets are welcome, as are children over eight.


Pat and Len Curran took their time renovating the Maple Street Inn, a lovely Second Empire Mansard Victorian home, and it shows, from the colors of the rooms to the antique woods. Amenities include private entrances, private baths with whirlpool tubs or body spray showers, and gourmet breakfasts.


 

Sheila Bourneval welcomes guests to Bursley Manor, originally a dairy farm dating back to 1670. The well-appointed guest rooms have king-sized beds, cable TV, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, and private baths with spa tubs and robes.




Yarmouth Port area
A Greek revival farmhouse built in 1857, Isaiah Hall has been a B&B for over 20 years. Guests (including children over seven) love relaxing in the barn-turned-great room, and guest rooms range from cozy and affordable to the lavish 600-square-foot Isaiah Hall Suite.


The Liberty Hill Inn sits atop a small hill in the heart of historic Yarmouth Port. The spacious, airy guest rooms are enhanced by the welcoming hospitality and great breakfasts offered by innkeepers John Hunt and Kris Srihadi.


One Centre Street Inn combines the historic charms of a renovated Greek revival home with the welcoming hospitality plus great breakfasts prepared by innkeeper Mary Singleton.


 

Michael and Helen Cassels are a charming British couple who are making The Inn at Cape Cod one of the Cape’s top B&Bs. This classic Greek revival mansion offers elegant décor and all modern conveniences, plus Helen’s delicious breakfasts and afternoon treats.


Brewster area
Brewster by the Sea offers nine spacious rooms and the finest in food and hospitality from innkeepers Donna and Byron. An oasis-like setting behind the inn offers an in-house spa and swimming pool.


 

Dating back to 1790, the Candleberry Inn has the original beams in the parlor, wide-board pine floors, and primitive Calhoun art – indigenous to the Cape. Herbal workshops are an off-season favorite.


 

A former sea captain’s home, the Old Manse Inn has been handsomely redecorated, from the ample common areas to the spacious guest rooms. Innkeepers Art and Judy Arnold provide free vacation planning service to help you get the most from your Cape Cod vacation.


Harwich area
Dunscroft by the Sea has a blissful setting, just 150 yards from a white-sand, private, mile-long beach. Rooms are named after contemporary and classical lovers; some have kitchenettes and Jacuzzi tubs.


Families love the Tern Inn, a family-oriented B&B with guest rooms and cottages, with gas grills and picnic tables, plus a swimming pool, playground, and basketball court. Very nice dining/living room area. Wagons are provided for hauling gear and kids to the beach on Nantucket Sound, just a short few blocks away.


Chatham
One of the Cape's most luxurious inns, the Captain's House  pampers guests with beautiful accommodations, great breakfasts, and afternoon tea. Midweek, off-season specials are an especially good value.


Innkeepers Tim and Paula Miller have taken their years of experience in the hospitality business and put it to excellent use at the Carriage House Inn. The attractive guest rooms have been made even more so with recent renovations. Paula ensures that guests are enjoying their Cape Cod visit, while Tim makes outstanding baked good to tempt his guests.


 


Orleans/Eastham/Wellfleet/Provincetown
So many inns, so little time! We were not able to make personal visits to inns on the Upper Cape towns of Orleans, East Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet, and Provincetown, but we  suggest you click through for detailed listings and to post reviews. We hope to add additional recommendations in the future.

If you see this button on an inn's listing, click it to book your room directly from BedandBreakfast.com!
 

Want to find an inn that meets your specific needs? Go to www.BedandBreakfast.com. Click on the Search tab at the top of the page, and select Detailed Search from the dropdown menu. You can then find B&Bs that welcome children or pets, allow smoking, cater to business travelers, or other criteria.









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